So I was perusing my local fabric warehouse (because that’s where I go for fun), not even looking for this most amazing embossed pleather, but there it was! So here we are.
I was already planning on making a bodice; the original plan was a reversible fabric bodice with a little bit of pleather that I already had in the front (seen above in the middle panel). But then I stumbled upon this amazing shimmery gold-brown diamond embossed pleather (and some other stuff that you’ll see later) and the whole plan had to change. Pleather doesn’t work so well as a reversible garment, so I would just have to make multiple bodices. Oh well!
Using a pattern that I’ve worked with before, I made a few modifications to widen the shoulder straps and size-down the front closure, reducing the bust and waist circumference. The last time I made this bodice, it was too big! It looks a little small on my dress form because the form is so solid; on the body, the opening in the front is much smaller because flesh is soft.
Once my pattern pieces were all adjusted to their new sizes, I sewed everything together using a long stitch. Pleather is not self-healing and too many needle holes too close together can make it structurally weak! Every seam was also top-stitched so that it would lie flat. Pleather is also not great for pressing and it needs to be sewn into submission.
I found this beautiful trim at the same time as the golden brown fabric and stitched it on top of select seams as part of my top-stitching. I think it’s a lovely detail. To finish the edges I lined the entire bodice with broadcloth and once again top-stitched the turned garment so that everything would stay flat. For the bottom edge, I made myself a little pleather bias tape (don’t bothering ironing it), sewed it right-sides together to the front of the garment, then folded it under and sewed it flat through all layers.
The lacing holes were hand-embroidered with a button-hole stitch (also known as a blanket stitch) by yours truly. It’s time-consuming work, but they’ve turned out to be more durable than installing grommets, plus they’re more historically accurate.
There’s no boning in the bodice, so it’s not a perfectly rigid garment. It will buckle a little if I sit down, but in a way that still looks plausibly like leather. Overall I’m very happy with how this piece turned out, but I do need to make a better shirt to wear under it!
